#Rim Joist Insulation R Value Install Insulation Properly
#Rim Joist Insulation R Value How To Het It

Rim Joist Insulation R Value Install Insulation Properly

Special attention should be given to the rim joist area of the floor system.insulation, the thicker it is, the higher the R-value. Rim Joist Spray FoamIt is critical to install insulation properly to achieve desired R-values. In this article I want to focus on rim joist insulation and the options that are available. Thermax consists of a rigid foam insulation board with smooth aluminum foil facings on both sides that can help to maintain proper humidity control.We’ve written a number of articles on insulating basements including insulating basement walls, insulating basement floors and basement insulation options. What Kind of Insulation For basements in the Menomonee Falls and Pewaukee area, 1.5 to 2 inches of Thermax can provide R-15 to R-19 level of insulation recommended by the Department of Energy.

Box sills and joist spaces at outside walls shall be insulated to the required wall R-value with air-impermeable insulation.Spray foam insulation is the best way to insulate a rim joist in my opinion. (7) BOX SILL AND RIM JOIST SPACES. The rim joist is the wood member that wraps around the basement perimeter above the foundation wall. For example, since you cannot conveniently 'pour'.

Fiberglass Rim Joist InsulationThe last method for insulating rim joists is to use fiberglass insulation. As you can see above in the photo the spray foam fills the voids and also helps hold the products in place. The insulation doesn’t have to be cut perfectly because of the next step.Once the insulation is in place we use a can of spray foam (like Great Stuff) to seal the edges of the foam board to the framing. Typically we will cut the foam about 1 inch smaller so it can be fit into place easily.In the adjacent photo you can see a piece of the insulation that was cut to fit between I-Joists.

As I mentioned early nails are very common along the rim joist. As you can see from the photo it’s very difficult to get the fiberglass insulation installed evenly around all the framing members.I’ve also seen this application result in mold problems. Fiberglass insulation doesn’t work very well in this application. In fact, our new home was built this way (this photo comes from my own home) for the simple fact that I had too much going on to focus on this detail.I’ve recently started replacing all the rim joist insulation in my home with the foam board that is shown above.

Question for you on our home.Our house is 6 years old, we bought it foreclosed and someone had broken in and stripped the electrical in the basement. If you have a situation like that, then I recommend reading my article: How To Insulate Bay Window Floors.Great site, I am finding it very useful. Rim Joists at Bay Windows / Deck CantileversMany readers have asked about special situations where the deck cantilevers out past the foundation (typical at bay windows, fire places, and deck overhangs). The bottom line is it doesn’t work well and I’d recommend you replace your fiberglass rim joist insulation with some type of foam product.

This is probably the most difficult area.I sandwiched 3 layers of 2″ along with a 1″ layer of polystyrene between the rafters. The other option was fiber glass insulation but am not sure this is the best application.I am thinking about buying the Froth-Pak spray foam kit and insulating that way however is it OK to foam over the wires? I know the junction boxes need to be accessible so how would I problem mask them off when foaming? How much room would I need to give them around the box?Here’s an example, you can see junction boxes in the cavity with wires, etc. I had considered 2″ foam board however I don’t have a lot of room to play with that due to the wires, etc. I want to insulate these cavities before winter. There are also several junction boxes against the sill in certain areas.

Rim Joist Insulation R Value How To Het It

24th and have been trying to get the materials lined up and the time to do things. A 1″ piece of ploystyrene will extend down beyond the bottom of the joists creating an uneven cieling condition…I can draw this but don’t know how to het it to you.Todd, I posted Dec. Then we have a 1/2″ – 3/4″ air gap then 7″ of ploystyrene then a 2″ air vent between all joists.I am asking about bubble wrap because that last 1/2″ – 3/4″ is not uniform. I thought about using foil faced bubble wrap or plain bubble wrap.Looking at this in section from the inside of the ceiling to the underside of the plywood sheathing we have 1/2″ sheet rock and 1″ of ploystyrene screwed to the bottom of the rafters. I need to fill this uneven space before attaching one more layer of polystyrene to the bottom of the joists.

I’m totally confused now and don’t know what to do. We live near a wooded rural area. We have had just a few sitings of carpenter ants in the past.

I have read the concrete housing people, using the ICF forms, have had this problem and it’s brought that type of building to a stop in this area. Now I’m very concerned about the carpenter ant situation and possibly termites. I was going to get the highly expandable spray foam, encase the rim joist about 18 inches at a time and with a spot light foam it full. By this I mean the joists run parallel with the rim joist, so I don’t have much room at all to work and very little visibility.

He said if I saw one carpenter ant there is a nest somewhere. A friend linked me with a guy who works for an exterminator and has all the licensing, etc. $500 initial inspection, treatment, plus $50 per mo. I spoke with a local exterminator.

Then carry the poison back to the nest. They will walk around sweets if they want protein and vice versa. The ants want either sweets or protein. There are two types of poison and carpenter ants may ignore one for awhile so he recommends using both. Don’t want to use this as an ad so won’t say anymore names, but he gave me several you can buy online. Any hand sprayer will work he says.

But wet wood will draw them. This guy said they will gravitate to foam because it’s a lot easier to get into than wood. Anyway,I’m going to spray the rim joists and then foam them full. The ants go dormant in the winter.

Unvented crawlspace with a dirt floor and block foundation wall. We are also getting ready to encapsulate our 500 s.f. Thanks for your time.Great site! we are preparing to finish the basement of our 1963 home and plan to install rigid foam on the rim joists as you’ve described. BTW the poison isn’t all that expensive, in today’s world, that I looked at. This exterminator has foam board in his house and uses spray foam and isn’t worried. Just thought I would get back to you.

Then install and caulk treated 1×4 lumber to cover the top portion of the foundation wall that the sill plate doesn’t cover. We are thinking about using urathane caulk to seal the rim joist, sill plate and around the joist ends. They are saying it could prevent a proper inspection if we ever sell. With everything I’ve read, it is not a good idea to insulate the rim joists of a crawlspace with rigid foam.

Also,with a closed and encapsulated crawlspace. Fiberglass insulation is food for mold and really don’t want it in my crawlspace. I really would like to just do rigid foam but don’t want to have to rip it out in the future.